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Now the spirit of reform has also breached the imposing walls of the capital, Valletta. Entering Valletta, the tiny fortified capital of Malta, always gives me a buzz. It's a 16th Century city built in the local honey-coloured limestone, by the Knights of St John. They had nearly lost malts Mediterranean island to the Ottoman Turks in the great siege of and their new capital was built for impregnability, its awe-inspiring fortifications breached malha by a single bridge and City Gate.

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The Maltese are not generally known for speedy forward motion - except behind the wheel of their beloved cars.

I fully expected this audacious project to remain a footnote in Valletta's architectural history. There is no doubt, however, about what I see before me.

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The great limestone slabs of Valletta's modern entrance give out on to two broad new monumental stairways leading up to the ancient fortifications. In the square, a modern open-air theatre sits within the remains of the nation's 19th Century opera house, and, nearing completion, held aloft on stone stilts, stands Malta's first purpose-built parliament.

I meet the besuited Gonzi at the legal practice to which he has returned since leaving politics, and we sit in its appropriately modern interior within an historic Valletta townhouse. Gonzi led Malta into the EU and the euro and tells me he wanted to show that while his country was rooted in its history, it was also, as he puts it "transforming the historical inheritance into a modern outlook in an island ambitious for the future".

Even he, though, has been taken by surprise by how far that change in outlook has already swept.

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As a Nationalist - in British terms, conservative - Gonzi never expected to oversee a social revolution. When a private hage bill pushed him into calling a referendum on the legalisation of divorce, he promised to vote against, fully expecting the Maltese people to do the same.

What is more, this year, under Gonzi's Labour Party successor, Joseph Muscat, same-sex civil partnerships have been introduced - something quite unthinkable just a few years ago - and official statistics now show the proportion of Malta's babies born out of wedlock has reached one in four. EU membership, EU money, increased travel ses most of all, internet connectivity are driving a shift towards more liberal values. What about abortion, I ask Gonzi, could that too be legalised?

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